Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
